Pocket Wheel Assembly Instructions
through all the steps before starting the assembly.
Note: The smaller setscrews for the flyer
drive wheel and the bearing collar should only be tightened enough to prevent
those parts from moving on the shaft.
Overly tightening these setscrews can dent the shaft, making it
difficult to reposition either part. If
the shaft gets dented, remove the shaft from the main body and polish with emery cloth or
600-grit sandpaper until the drive wheel smoothly slides along the shaft.
Note: The wheels ship with the flyer shaft and drive wheel installed in the frame, as shown in the below photo. If you are packing a wheel into checked luggage for travel, I encourage removing this shaft, as it can be easily bent unless well protected. This will require loosening the setscrews on the bearing collar and the drive wheel, and sliding the flyer shaft up and out of the main body. The upper and/or lower bearings may also be removed, and bagged with the drive wheel and bearing collar.
2. Treadle axle, with axle nuts
4. Flyer (shown with optional second hook and slider)
5. Right crank and main spring
6. L-handle hex wrenches
7. Scotch tension knob, with line and spring attached
8. Rear leg with tool retainer magnet
9. Main body with flyer shaft assembly installed
Position rear of main body into the rear leg, with the wider side of the
rear leg to the left and the button magnet underneath the main body. Insert the treadle axle through the holes in
the leg and body, but do not yet install the treadles. If your wheel parts include white plastic washers, install one on each side of the treadle axle.
Adjust the location of the bearing collar on the flyer shaft to be slightly separated from touching the upper bearing, such that a few sheets of paper could fit between the collar and the bearing (it's not an exact setting, as long as they're not quite touching). The collar's setscrew is most easily reached from the left side of the frame, and you may need to
repeat this adjustment as the wheel acclimates to your local
humidity, and again when your humidity changes seasonally.
Insert the big wheel axle through the main body, until the big wheel
contacts the flyer drive wheel. Position
the wheel so that the flat spot on the right end of the axle is facing up.
Slip the crank spring over the axle.
Loosen the setscrew of the right crank, and slip the crank over the end
of the axle. While supporting the big
wheel from the left side, press the right crank onto the shaft until flush with
the axle end. Using the larger hex wrench, securely tighten the setscrew,
get this good and tight. You may find this easier to complete with the entire wheel tipped onto the left side, or by placing the outer face of the big wheel on your lap.
Step 5: Slowly rotate the big wheel while
watching the flyer drive wheel, making sure they are in contact all the way
around. If there is skipping, the right
crank should be adjusted deeper onto the axle.
This will further compress the crank spring, forcing the big wheel
tighter against the flyer drive wheel.
Note: Too much pressure against the flyer
drive wheel will cause greater treadling effort, premature wear of the flyer
drive ring, and black marks on the big wheel.
Slide the left and right treadles onto the treadle axle, setting them
atop the cranks. Install the treadle
axle nuts finger-tight. The treadles
should pivot freely on the axle, while the orange rubber pad under the toe end rides on the crank bearings.
Slide a bobbin onto the flyer shaft, ensuring it turns easily on the
shaft. Observe where each end of the bobbin contacts
the shaft, applying a drop of oil to those two points whenever a bobbin starts
to drag or squeak.
flyer onto the end of the flyer shaft, and twist the orifice nut clockwise
until finger-tight. Double-check the flyer is securely attached by holding the big wheel in place with one hand while trying to move the flyer with the other (if they move independently, tighten the orifice nut some more). To remove the flyer,
loosen the flyer clamp counter-clockwise one full turn, and press inward gently
to release the clamp collet from the shaft.
Step 8: Install the scotch tension spring
onto the pigtail in front of the bobbin.
Wrap the tension thread around the bobbin whorl and through the pigtail
loop, tightening the tension knob to take up slack. The tension knob and hole are tapered, so a
little inward pressure when turning will hold the knob in place. If it gets too hard to turn, wiggle the knob
loose while pulling outward.
Note: Use the least tension needed to draw
in the yarn. Excessive tension will cause
greater treadling effort, premature wear of the flyer drive ring, and black
marks on the big wheel.
Stow the L-handle hex wrenches using the button magnet on the inner rear